Take a Walking Vacation This Year
An Oregon Sampler

By Maggie Spilner

As the Walking Editor for Prevention magazine and director of its Walking Vacation programs for many years, I visited dozens of fabulous walking destinations. But when visiting Oregon last summer, I fell in love. The variety of terrain, the spectacular, world-class natural attractions make the state a walking vacation paradise.

On my first walking vacation, I reveled in the way the stress drains from your body when you’re walking in the woods all day long. On a walking holiday you begin to relate to time from the point of the view of the sun in the sky, rather than the hands on the face of your wristwatch. Today, I organize walking vacations with the intention of sharing that sense of regeneration and refreshment with others as they become more connected to their natural rhythms. I’ve plotted a course for a weeklong Oregon sampler that gives a tantalizing taste of the incredible variety that Oregon offers. Use it as a template for your own walking adventures.

Begin at the Rim
Crater Lake, that “gem of the Cascades,” which formed after the massive explosion of Mount Mazama thousands of years ago, is a must see. Don’t be discouraged by the popularity of this destination. Last July I felt virtually alone on many of the trails.

I arrived at Medford Airport and drove directly up Route 62 to the National Park, leaving the stifling 100-degree heat behind. Bring your long pants and windbreakers; it can be brisk up there even in mid-summer. Just past the entrance to the National Park, (where you pay a small entry fee) turn right into Mazama Campground. There is tent camping here, no reservation required and there are spacious cabins with two queen beds. The site has a camp store and Laundromat and leads to several nice trailheads for walkers.

We explored the Annie Creek Canyon Trail, which begins back by the amphitheatre in the campgrounds (just ask at the store). It’s only a 1.7-mile loop but it covers some beautiful terrain as it winds down into the canyon lined with sculptured, pumice walls formed from volcanic ash, along the streambed, crossing Annie Creek four times over small log bridges. The somewhat steep descent and ascent out of the canyon makes this short hike quite invigorating. Add an additional 1/2 mile getting to and from the trailhead from the parking lot and you’ve got a nice acclimating walk under your boots.

At dawn the next day we drove the seven miles up to Crater Lake Lodge, a glorious stone and wood structure built right on the edge of the Rim. We stood gazing out over the crater, watching the sunrise. The colors were all purples and grays and deep midnight blues due to the early morning clouds. We had breakfast in the lodge’s magnificent dining room where you can gaze out over Crater Lake while you enjoy a sumptuous morning feast. There are 71 guest rooms here, but you’ll have to plan well in advance to get one — maybe a year, if you’re limited to weekends.

After breakfast many guests take their tea or coffee to a rocker out on the stone porch and watch the lake as the rising sun changes its color from a deep midnight blue to a brighter, richer blue tinged with traces of turquoise.

I suggest taking the trail to Garfield Peak, which starts as a paved pathway to the right of the lodge (facing the lake) and becomes a broad trail following the rim through meadows of wildflowers, then switchbacks past cliffs of volcanic rubble. Beware of patches of snow that last until August. (If anything looks slippery or unsafe, don’t try clambering over it.) The view at the top gives a panoramic vista of Cascade peaks including Mount Shasta and the Three Sisters. It’s about three miles round trip, but take your time to explore the view and the wildflowers. You can easily spend a morning or an afternoon.

Another popular climb that was snow covered when I was there is a 1.6-mile loop up The Watchman Trail where there is a lookout tower staffed with rangers who scan for forest fires. You reach the trailhead by driving clockwise around the Rim about four miles to a rail-fenced parking lot.

The Rim is 33 miles around and you’ll want to drive the entire circumference, partly just to say you did, but mostly to get every possible view of this geological marvel. There are many places to stop, park, and take pictures and short hikes, including one that switchbacks 1.1 miles down to the lake and a boat dock (called Cleetwood Cove Trail, about 10 miles clockwise from the lodge parking lot). From there you can go out on a sightseeing boat and visit Wizard Island where you can also do some hiking and picnicking (and get picked up by the next boat).

Head for the Caves
Leaving Crater Lake, we headed for Cave Junction and the Chateau at the Oregon Caves National Monument situated near the top of the Siskiyou Mountains, about a three-hour drive. Staying at the historic hotel is a treat and you may want to join a ranger-guided tour. Keep in mind there are no elevators and what goes up must be carried there, and down, by you. There are two dining areas; an upscale restaurant on the ground floor adjacent to the gift shop with a spring running right through it, and a 1930s style coffee shop and deli bar, half a flight down.

You can take a hike through the famous caves, which takes about 90 minutes. Bring your jacket. It’s about 42 degrees inside. It’s best to go to the ranger’s station and sign up early. This is a popular tour and lines can form during the summer months.

The 3.8-mile Big Tree Loop is now one of my favorite hikes. It takes you past one of the largest Douglas fir trees in Oregon. We started by walking along a macadam trail with a handrail that skirts around the caves. There were hundreds of large, brown and cream-colored snails climbing along the rocks, beautifully camouflaged among the foliage and dead leaves. During a comfortably steady ascent we passed through old growth forests of towering fir trees.

About a third of the way on the trail, we emerged at a rocky outcropping, with a ledge forming a perfect seat to face the sea of mountains below us. This spectacular view alone was well worth the climb. This is a great place for a snack or lunch. After this came more cool woodsy trails and a few sunny meadows of wildflowers. The big tree Douglas fir indeed dwarfed all the others we’d passed. To be in the presence of a living tree of such proportion is an awesome privilege. Take a few moments to soak up its energy before beginning your descent.

On to the Coast
From Chateau of the Oregon Caves we head to the coast, aiming for Crescent City in California and then heading north up to Gold Beach and the Rogue River. These beaches have some of the most magnificent rock formations and rugged coastline in the country. Even the ride down Hwy 199 is breathtaking.

Besides just getting down on the beaches to walk for miles among the massive rocks and boulders, the Pacific Coast Trail hovers along the cliffs, bordering Highway 101. You can hop on and off at various junctures and state parks all along here, and we did, spotting some of the more spectacular views, such as the Natural Bridges Cove near Boardman State Park. 120 Hikes on the Oregon Coast by Bonnie Henderson is a very helpful guide.

A note of caution about these beaches: the fog comes in fast. Stay aware of the quick weather changes, carry a whistle or bell to gather up your group in dense fog, and find a way to mark your entry to the beach as the trail just melts into the shrubbery once you leave it.

After four days of hiking and walking, my husband and I decided our legs could use a rest, so we headed up to Gold Beach and the mail boats of the Rogue River. We spent an absolutely delightful day entertained by our mail boat captain as we sped up the river into ever more remote areas on what was basically an oversized jet ski, which is able to skim over rocks in shallow waters. We saw two bald eagles, watched a fisherman bag a huge salmon, followed an otter diving and swirling along the river’s edge and a deer swim across our path. Since coming back from my week in Oregon, I’ve ordered more guidebooks to the region. Obviously there are countless opportunities for adventurous walks in Oregon. I’ll be b-a-a-c-k!

Maggie Spilner offers walking vacations, products, free walking ecards, and more on her website at www.walkforallseasons.com.