Start the Year Right: Eat Fresh, Seasonal, and Local

Winter Pasta of Celeriac, Kale, Walnuts, and Rogue River Blue Cheese 1lb fresh fettucini or other noodle 1bunch kale, coarsely chopped 1lb celeriac — celery root — peeled and diced 3/8" zest and juice of one lemon 2T minced garlic 1/2tsp red pepper flakes 1/4C extra virgin olive oil 1C white wine 6oz crumbled Rogue River blue cheese salt and pepper to taste 1C walnuts — lightly toasted Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the noodles until al dente. Drain the noodles, moisten with olive oil, and hold warm in a serving bowl. In the same pot, sauté the celeriac with the garlic and chili flakes in the olive oil over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes stirring occasionally. Add the chopped kale, lemon juice and zest, and the white wine. When the kale wilts add the cooked noodles and stir gently. Season taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to the serving bowl, top with the walnuts and blue cheese crumbles. Serve with an Oregon Pinot Noir and a crusty loaf of bread.

By Greg Higgins

With another new year upon us, it’s a great time to think about the needs of our bodies, mind, and spirits. We really are what we eat — and during the heart of the Northwest winter it’s easy to fall prey to the lure of foods that may not be the most beneficial for our health concerns. Lower temperatures, inclement weather, and the shortening daylight hours certainly have their effects on our metabolisms. Since most of us no longer hibernate to emerge trim and hungry in the springtime, I’d suggest a few other positive measures toward physical and mental well being.

Eating a wholesome diet and getting moderate exercise is just the balance we can all benefit from. After an afternoon of hiking or cycling, what could be better than to enjoy a meal of seasonal local ingredients cooked up in a healthy simple preparation and savored with a glass of fine Willamette Valley wine? We inhabit a region of phenomenal food diversity. Even in winter you’ll find selections of incredible local produce, seafood, meats, and dairy products at better grocers. Look for items from small farms and artisanal producers; they’re apt to represent more sustainable methods, less processing, and contain better nutritive value.

When you’re shopping, pick two or three fresh ingredients that appeal to you and build your meal around them. Don’t be afraid to ask the advice of the produce people or the folks behind the meat and fish counter; building a relationship with your local grocer is part of getting connected to your foodshed. Using these winter varieties of fruits, vegetables, and other products will become a source of inspiration in your cooking for family and friends. You can enjoy the robust character of these winter ingredients by choosing cooking techniques that coax out and meld their rich complex flavors. Risottos, stews, slow roasts, and pasta dishes are all simple preparations with which to celebrate the aromas and tastes of the season.

Cooking and eating fresh, local, seasonal, and sustainable foods is much more than just great taste. It’s better for our personal health, our environment, and our communities. The ingredients are fresher, have better nutritional value, less chemical residues, and are minimally transported. Supporting local farmers helps keep food dollars circulating within our own region, strengthening agricultural communities, and connecting us all. Letting your grocers and growers know that sustainably produced ingredients are important to you rewards their practices and benefits our environment through improved agricultural land stewardship. The choices we make in the foods we purchase and consume are the threads from which our food system is woven. Celebrating each season’s best from our farming, fishing, and ranching friends nourishes our families and our communities.

Chef/owner of Higgins Restaurant & Bar in Portland, Oregon since 1994, Greg is an avid organic gardener and active proponent of sustainable food practices. Higgins maintains a strong commitment to supporting local farmers, fishermen, ranchers, and foragers as well as to educating and inspiring people to choose good clean food. He was honored by the James Beard Foundation as the recipient of their 2002-2003 award for Best Chef: Northwest/Hawaii.