Body Wise*

*The information contained herein is not intended to diagnose or treat ANY medical condition.

Mind Your Makeup’s Expiration Dates

By Faith Jansen

Today there is an evolution that is sweeping the news, shedding light on skincare products that we have used on our bodies for decades. We are finally becoming aware of studies that show a link between these products and certain health conditions, like dermatitis, eczema, and an array of other rashes or allergies.

As someone who works with many kinds of skin care products, I can tell you that consumers are becoming savvy label-readers. This certainly makes my job more challenging and interesting.

The customer’s eye is not only on expiration dates, but also on what kind of container the product is stored in. They ponder: Is plastic better than glass? Can the container be recycled? Is the container clear or opaque? Does it have a pump for application or is it in a jar? They are asking about the product’s stability, exposure to light, and sanitation. They want to know if the product can be safely used by different people.

Knowing the answers still does not guarantee that the product will last longer than its expiration date. Cosmetic products are made to be used, not to be stored. All products have a shelf life. Because of this, we should think of skin care products, including makeup, like food.

Consumers need to know that the expiration clock starts ticking the moment a product is opened.

Always check the color, consistency, and smell of your products. Even with no visible signs of spoilage, any kind of change can mean the product has gone bad. In this country, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to print expiration dates on the labels.

There are some governing regulations concerning the sale of cosmetics. Although the ingredients are not required to be examined for approval before they are sold to the public (except for color additives), they must be listed in descending order of quantity.

The first ingredient is usually water. More recently aloe vera has taken this top spot in several lines. Know this: Any product that contains water is highly susceptible to bacteria. The preservatives that have been used for decades, like parabens, have fallen out of favor in some lines. Parabens would preserve a product for up to two years from its manufacture date (not when it is opened.) Without parabens, products only last three or four months.

The FDA does have some requirements for over-the-counter acne treatments and sunscreens. For this product category, containers must have a drug facts panel on the container, along with an expiration date or symbol.

The symbol might be an opened or closed jar. The product’s shelf life is noted with a number, followed by the letter “M.” For example: 6M would mean the product is good for six months after it is opened.

This is somewhat confusing, because some manufacturers use the date the product was made. In that case, you need to know that it will expire within two years of opening. For example, most sunscreens are good for two years after opening.

Along with “all natural” products comes a shorter shelf life. These are products that may contain plant-derived substances and “natural” preservatives.

Some of these include grapefruit seed, polysorbates, sugars, honey, citric acid, lecithin, vitamin E, and different types of denatured alcohol. These are important ingredients that help preserve the product, as well as help it penetrate further into the skin.

Products that are preservative-free carry an increased risk of microbial growth and a shorter shelf life.

Through a process called “stability testing,” cosmetic manufacturers determine expiration dates on everything from eye shadow to lip gloss. This is not an FDA requirement.

It’s important to keep track of when we buy these products. One way is to write the date of purchase on the container with a permanent marker. Then keep an eye and a good sniff on it. If you suddenly become sensitive to a product, it is time to play it safe and throw it out.

The voluntary shelf-life guidelines developed by the cosmetic industry may vary according to the product and its intended use. In addition, the shelf life for any product that is used around the eye is even more limited. The repeated use of eye pencils and mascaras increases the risk of eye infections. Never add water or any other liquid to mascara. Replace it when it starts to dry out.

Keep in mind that natural body care products contain active ingredients. These will lose their efficacy over time. Clues to an out-of-date product include your skin is no longer absorbing the product or you’re having a “bad hair day” everyday.

To keep your products safe, store in a cool and dry place, out of direct sunlight. Never share your makeup, and use disposable applicators at cosmetic counters. Regularly clean your personal makeup brushes. Close all containers tightly after each use, and always check expiration dates. Call the manufacturer if you have any questions.

Faith Jansen, DT, is a licensed esthetician. She is a body care specialist at New Seasons Market, located in Lake Oswego, OR.