Sparrow Grass: King of the Roman Empire

By Uncle Paul

Today, I want to take you on journey to visit a king face-to-face. We will travel back in time to the year 26 BC, to the edge of the Tiber River, located in Rome. The Roman Empire had many emperors, but only one king, and he ruled the entire regime.

Along the edges of the Tiber we will find Roman chariots lined up by decree of the Emperor Caesar Augustus to carry this king. Not just any chariot will do; only the fastest ones with the strongest horses and the best drivers are chosen. These stand poised and ready to go on a most intriguing race against time.

It is spring, blossoms are everywhere, and we are waiting for tiny sparrow grass shoots to pop up along the river banks. Asparagus is the first vegetable to pop out of the frozen ground, and its tiny shoots can grow up to 10 inches in one day.

We will gather these shoots, fill the chariots, and then hitch a ride that takes us miles away to the edge of the snowline in the Italian Alps. We will bury the king deeply in the snow, then journey back to Rome and wait. In the fall, we will return to unearth this king we treasure so much, so that he may attend the Feast of Epicurus.

This king is the king of all vegetables: King Sparrow Grass, or as we know him today, asparagus.

Asparagus was so sought after that the emperor commanded fleets of harvesters to search the entire empire for the best asparagus spears and bring them back to Rome.

The Romans were the first to cultivate asparagus, and asparagus recipes are included in the oldest known cookbook. One surviving recipe calls for a platter of small songbirds in asparagus sauce, with quail’s eggs carefully arranged to impress dinner guests.

The Emperor Caesar Augustus described “haste” to his underlings as being “quicker than you can cook asparagus.” The Greeks used wild asparagus as a medicine and food, and France’s King Louis XIV had gardeners grow asparagus in greenhouses so he could enjoy the vegetable year round.

If you enjoy green asparagus, try white asparagus. This variety is more mild and tender, with a slight nutty flavor. The white appearance of the spear comes from not being grown in sunlight. The spears are generally covered with a black plastic drum, black plastic, or simply soil. For a more exotic flavor, try purple asparagus. Varieties such as “Purple Passion” and “Viola” are purple on the outside, green on the inside.

Originally a medicinal plant, asparagus was thought to be the answer for many ailments, including toothaches, bee stings, edema, and heart trouble. Asparagus was considered a potent laxative and diuretic, and could even be taken as a sedative.

Asparagus is one of the more nutritionally valuable vegetables and contains the highest amount of folic acid. Folic acid is necessary for blood cell formation and growth, as well as preventing liver disease. Folic acid is also important for pregnant women, because it helps prevent neural tube defects such as spina bifida in the developing fetus.

Each stalk contains fewer than four calories, is low in sodium, and is fat- and cholesterol-free. The vegetable is also a great source of potassium and fiber. Finally, the plant is a source of rutin, a compound that strengthens the walls of capillaries. Asparagus is a nutrient-dense food and is a good source of vitamin B6, vitamins A and C, and thiamin.

So this spring put on your toga, hop on your favorite chariot, and pick up your supply of sparrow grass — the very first frozen food. If you want to be an aristocrat, it is only a spear away.

Enjoy, and by the way, asparagus is one of the few foods you can eat with your hands in front of company — even if you are wearing a toga.

Uncle Paul, along with his wife Calla, owns Uncle Paul’s European Style Open Air Produce Market, 2310 SE Hawthorne, 503-484-8612 or visit www.unclepaulsproduce.com