Graceful Aging

Photo courtesy of Dr. James Green: Santa Fe, NM

By Cassie Jo Coster

Sagging jowls, puffy, tired-looking eyes, liver spots, wrinkles, crepe-like skin? Aging can be the pits. A sad fact of life it is that we cannot hang on to the faces we recognize as our own. Signs of aging begin to appear on the skin in the 30s and each following decade of life brings its own sinister bag of tricks.

In order to keep the effects of aging at bay it is important to have the tools to change what you can, the grace to accept what you cannot, and the knowledge to know the difference.

The Biology of Aging Skin
Skin is made up of three distinct layers. The innermost layer is simply a layer of subcutaneous fat. This fatty lining serves to protect the body against bumps and bruises, gives shape and youthful “fullness” to skin, and helps your body regulate its temperature. The gradual disappearance of skin fat as we age is the culprit of one of the most significant signs of aging, sagging skin. Unfortunately, there is no miracle cream for sagging, the only “cure” is plastic surgery.

The middle layer of your skin, the dermis, contains collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), all key players in the appearance of skin. Without going into too much detail, collagen is what gives skin it firmness, elastin gives it its elastic quality, and GAGs give the skin its moisture-retention properties. Through the years the epidermis significantly thins and the production of these three “beauty building blocks” slows down resulting in thinner, saggier, and drier skin.

The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis. At the base of the epidermis lies a winding row of column-shaped “basal” cells. In a constant state of renewal, these cells repeatedly divide, pushing new cells upward toward the surface of the skin. As these newborn cells move upward they go through physical changes in size and shape as well as chemical changes. They synthesize a protein coating called keratin, which gives the skin a watertight barrier protecting it from outward irritants and helps the skin to hold its natural moisture. Dispersed along the row of basal cells are a smaller number of melanocytes. These are specific cells that “squirt” pigment into the other skin cells giving each individual’s skin its distinct color. As the body ages the constant renewal of cells slows way down as does the synthesis of keratin. As a result, the outermost layer of the skin thickens with the buildup of dead cells which causes the skin to become weathered looking. Because of the lack of keratin, skin loses its ability to retain moisture and becomes dry. Melanocytes decrease in number and begin to perform erratically, overproducing in some spots and not producing at all in others. As a result, the color of the skin lightens. Brown “age” or “liver” spots appear where the melanocytes are overproducing and white spots appear where they have quit.

The Anti-Aging Arsenal
There are many products on the market purporting to turn back time. Some ingredients with proven results are retinoids, vitamin C, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, and hydroquinone.

Retinoids remind the dermis to create collagen and elastin. They also increase cell birth and turnover in the dermis. Regular use of a retinoid product can reduce fine lines, improve elasticity, and reduce color discrepancies on the skin. Retinoids are available by prescription, as the popular Retin-A and Renova, or over-the-counter in skin care creams and gels. Look for “retinol” or “retinyl salts” in the ingredient listings. These products should be used no more than once a day as they can be drying. If skin becomes dry, try using the product every other day or just two to three times a week. Retinoids should also only be used in the evening as UV rays deactivate their effectiveness.

Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis in the dermis, lightens age spots to a certain degree, and works as an antioxidant to help protect against the oxidative effects of sunlight and pollution. The collagen stimulation can result in the filling of fine lines and firming of skin. Products containing vitamin C are all over the shelves these days. However, look for one with a vitamin C concentration of 5% or more, as a lesser concentration will be ineffective. Vitamin C products can be used night or day.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are derived from the sugars in milk and fruit. Lactic acid, glycolic acid, and citric acid are in this category. These acids work by exfoliating dead cells on the surface layer of the epidermis to reveal the fresher, newer skin underneath. In turn, the removal of the dead cells stimulates the basal cells to produce more cells and increase turnover, which results in lighter, smoother skin and diminished age spots. AHAs can be found readily over the counter and are also available in stronger concentrations with a prescription. They can be used night or day; however, daytime use should be in conjunction with a sunscreen product as removing the outer layer of cells increases the skins sensitivity to light.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are natural acids derived from plants. The most readily available BHA is salicylic acid, similar in chemical structure to aspirin and in its anti-inflammatory properties. BHAs work in the same way as AHAs and produce the same results. They do not penetrate the skin as deeply as AHAs but because of the anti-inflammatory effects can often be easier to tolerate by sensitive skin types. BHAs are also readily found over the counter. Look for salicylic acid in the list of ingredients. And again, use with a sunscreen.

Hydroquinone is a topical bleaching agent, available only by prescription, which can significantly lighten age spots. However, hydroquinone can be irritating and is not recommended for consecutive use longer than three months. It is available in cream or gel forms and can be used day or night.

Knowledge of the processes of aging as well as some of the products available to combat the effects will enable you to put together a skincare regimen that is both beneficial and realistic. A skincare professional can help you further tailor an anti-aging regimen to your specific needs. Because, like those amusing commercials say, “Life Comes at You Fast.”

Cassie Jo Coster is a licensed aeshetician and owner of Vellum Skin Care located at 17222 NW Raleigh, #105; Portland, OR 97209; 503-810-8545.